France: Terroir & Trends
Thursday, March 12, 9:30-11:15 a.m.
Vancouver Convention Centre East
Recap by Sid Cross
Moderator: Arnica Rowan
Panelists: Marielene Auclair, Charles Bouthillier, Romain Chevrolat, Marie Pinceloup, Nicholas Villalon, Rebecca Yates-Campbell
The 47th annual @VANWINEFEST Vancouver International Wine Festival #VIWF has just concluded giving us another educational and insightful week on wine, food and hospitality. This year’s focus was on France, featuring key wines and seminars. The opening Trade event “France: Terroir & Trends,” was held early at 9:30 am on Thursday March 12. Eight French wines from six regions were tasted to discover their terroir or “sense of place,” on a panel well moderated by Arnica Rowan with knowledgeable comments from winery principals. The presentation was inspired by Andrew Jefford for his ideas plus illustrations created using generative AI (ChatGPT) with a reference to TerroirWine.ca. The organizers do a terrific job assisting you with the helpful detailed program outline set out below. Some comments from your scribe:
2022 CHABLIS LES BLANCHOTS GRAND CRU DOMAINE LAROCHE: What an amazing start with a Grand Cru Chablis! Big fan of Laroche Chablis since the seventies due to the pioneering quality work by Michel Laroche & his wife, Gwenael (now at Le Domaine d’Henri). Domaine Laroche owns over 1/3 of the vineyards in their flagship Blanchots, where the special white clay soil layer over Kimmeridgian limestone provides a lighter more delicate style. They also use the best grape lots from this Grand Cru to make the exciting “La Reserve de l’Obedience,” which has more complex depth and finesse than the regular Blanchots. The 2022 harvest began earlier, at the end of August, yielding a large crop of varying ripeness. Our wine is forwardly light, young, bright, and round, showing lovely Chablis character but it is overall rather soft and needs better structure with more acidity for long aging. I prefer the vibrancy and richer character of their Grand Cru Les Bougerots & Les Clos in 2022 for cellaring.
2015 CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC CLOS DE L’ORATOIRE DES PAPES: This winery admirably uses organic methods encouraging composting to invite insects, employing cover crops, and implementing active water preservation measures. This ten-year-old Rhône white, sourced from two parcels on limestone soil, blends 30% each of Clairette, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne with 10% Bourboulenc. It shows an aged yellow-gold color and deep, ripe, sweeter honey peach perfumes. It is uniquely full, rich, and powerful, currently on a wonderful drinking plateau. Nice maturity. Such a dramatic contrast to the Chablis.
2023 EMBUNS DE VIOGNIER DOMAINE GASSIER: This 100% Viognier, organically grown by keen producers Tina & Michel Gassier for Chateau de Nages in the Languedoc as Vin de Pays du Gard has the variety’s typically distinctive spicy apricot fullness. So lush at 13% ABV for a bargain price!
2023 GEWURZTRAMINER CUVEE BACCHUS PFAFF: It combines two soil types in Alsace—limestone and chalky clay—to grow Gewürztraminer grapes, producing a very aromatic, expressive, spicy, floral wine with notes of rose and lychee that is true to the variety. Off-dry at 13.5% ABV with a touch of ginger is so pleasant.
2022 CHATEAU CAPET-GUILLIERE ST. EMILION: Four hectares of deep, compact clay-limestone soils yield a balanced blend of 82% Merlot & 18% Cabernet Franc, offering a fruity Right Bank expression of Grand Cru Saint-Émilion south in Saint-Hippolyte. The estate has used biodynamic practices since 2021. Antoine Moueix Proprietes uses four weeks of maceration, malolactic fermentation in barrique, and aging in 50% new French oak for 12-16 months to produce 18,000 bottles of this floral, plush, easy-drinking red. Another example of improving smaller, valuable properties emerging around Bordeaux.
2020 CLOS D’ORA MINERVOIS LA LIVINIERE GÉRARD BERTRAND: This expensive premium red wine from Languedoc-Roussillon is an organic biodynamic blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Carignan, sourced from nine stone walled hectares on limestone marl soils with horse-tended rows. Fermented in concrete and aged one year in French oak this complex wine at a powerful 15.5% ABV features intense blackberries, dark plums & cherries, dominated by an elegant touch of spicy garrigue. This is truly amazing wine from a remarkable producer, Gerard Bertrand, with numbered bottles; it needs further aging to best show its rich depth of fruit quality. An innovator as “L’Art De Vivre Les Vins Du Sud” for sure.
2017 LES JARDINS PHILOSOPHIQUES BLANC CHATEAU BOUCASSE: Two unusual wines from South-West France by Vigneron & Proprietaire Alain Brumont conclude this interesting wine tasting. This white wine is a blend of 70% lesser-known Petit Courbu and 30% Petit Manseng; it ferments in tanks with long lees aging but sees no wood. At 13.5% ABV, it shows very ripe, yet dry, exotic, smooth, and honeyed fruit. Perhaps try pairing with foie gras. Discovered by CostcoUSA and sold for a steal at $13 a bottle, it is still relatively inexpensive in Canada, selling in the low forty-dollar range. Unique.
2019 CHATEAU MONTUS MADIRAN: This protected appellation produces this powerful blend of 60% Tannat with 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc at 13.5% ABV. Old vines of Bouscasse in Madiran, Gascony, in southwest France. A long 30–45 day maceration on skins and three years in wood results in a grippy, tannic red wine. CostcoUSA also discovered this wine and sold it for a crazy low price of $15 a bottle. Even though the price in Canada is now $48, it is still a low price for a big, full-bodied, distinct terroir Madiran. Good matching for BBQ. This seminar clearly illustrated France’s diverse wines. Thanks.
The Shape of Wine
Thursday, April 27, 5:15-6:45 p.m.
Vancouver Convention Centre East
Recap by Tony Kwan
Moderator: Alysha Harker
Panelists: Richard Charnock, Jacinta Escobar, Kerri McNolty, Lyndsay O’Rourke
I would highly recommend this seminar. In addition to tasting 4 wines, which are presented by representatives of the winery, you get a wonderful tasting experience where you see the dramatic effects that the shape of wine glass has on taste and aroma. As an added bonus, you get to keep the 4 wine glasses you taste with, the value which exceeds the cost of the seminar.
Watch the recap here
A Tour de France in Your Glass
Thursday, March 12, 5:15-6:45 p.m.
Vancouver Convention Centre East
Recap by Bill Tieleman, Wine Barbarian
Moderator: Arnica Rowan
Panelists: Charles Bouthillier, Romain Chevrolat, James Leonardo De Sa, Thibaut Marquis, Marie Pinceloup, Julie Pion, Claudio Varas-Rubio, Rebecca Yates-Campbell
A Tour de France in Your Glass seminar was not at all like the arduous bike race, but it did take participants around that country in style – wine style! And each wine was designed to go with a French recipe picked by the presenters.
Moderated by Arnica Rowan, the tour started in Champagne and Chablis, then on to Bourgogne for Pinot Noir, where Thibault Marquis of Maison Louis Jadot noted: “The monks smelled the earth, they tasted the water, they licked the stones – and they liked it!”
Then on to Hermitage in the Rhone Valley for a taste of Chante-Alouoette Blanc 2018, which James Leonardo De Sa of M. Chapoutier said: “makes everything better!”
Then a Rhone Viognier was followed by a Provence rosé, which Marta Bonomo of Chateau Gassier says is the most food friendly wine.
“The lightness of a white wine and the complexity of a red wine,” she added.
Next on to Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Languedoc-Roussillon for powerful reds before arriving in Bordeaux for a Paulliac de Lynch Bages that Claudio Varas-Rubio said was: “like a little boy or little girl – open it one to two hours before drinking!”
The Tour ended in Madiran where Marie Pinceloup served a Chateau Montus that was big, nice and: “a happy ending! We produce the wine to be shared with people.”
And with that, the Tour was over, leaving only memories…and a longing for more French wine!
Bill Tieleman is a wine blogger and communications consultant.
Facebook: @bill.tieleman
Instagram: @WineBarbarian.ca
Twitter: @BillTieleman
Website: www.WineBarbarian.ca
Beaujolais: Dig into Diversity
Friday, April 28, 5:15-6:45 p.m.
Recap by Karl Kliperchuk, MyWinePal
Moderator: Iain Philip
What do you think about when you hear about Beaujolais wines? The seminar, Beaujolais: Dig into Diversity, for the Vancouver International Wine Festival 2026 was an exploration into Beaujolais wines and how it should now be regarded, rather than keep thinking about the past and the simple Beaujolais Nouveau wines. This seminar was lead by wine educator, Iain Philip.
Beaujolais is currently undergoing a radical strategic pivot, emerging as arguably the most dynamic wine region in France. For modern professionals, the historical fixation on “Beaujolais Nouveau” has long acted as a limiting monolith, obscuring the region’s profound terroir potential. Between the 1970s and the early 2000s, the region was defined by a one-dimensional image centered on immediate consumption and industrial speed. At its peak, Nouveau accounted for 55% of the region’s total production; today, that figure has collapsed to less than 20%. This decline represents a deliberate shift away from cash-flow-driven volume toward a diverse, terroir-centric model that honours the region’s two-millennium winemaking history. As we move away from the “fun but simple” cliché, we find a region defined by geological complexity and exceptional varietal adaptability.
96% of Beaujolais wines are made from the Gamay Noir grape and 4% are made from Chardonnay. Of the 12 appellations that make up Beaujolais, the 10 Crus only produce red wines.
The Geography of Diversity
Iain started by telling us that understanding Beaujolais requires mastering its 55km north-to-south axis, situated between the Mâconnais to the north and Lyon to the south. This corridor is defined by the influence of the Massif Central to the west and the Saône River valley to the east, creating a varied relief that dictates distinct wine styles. The current focus on “parcellaire” (plot-by-plot) labelling is not a modern marketing invention but a return to historical prestige. An 1869 map of the region delineated over 200 individual plots, proving that Beaujolais once commanded prices and respect equivalent to the finest estates of the Côte d’Or in Burgundy.
The 13,000 hectares of vines can be organized as follows by topography and soils:
| Topography | Soil Dominance | Specific Soil Types | Appellation Tier(s) |
| Southern Sector: Lower-lying plains and rolling hills | Sedimentary formations | Limestone (Pierres Dorées), Clay | Beaujolais AOC |
| Northern Sector: Steep slopes, “Heroic Viticulture” (>30° slope / >500m elevation) | Primary bedrock | Granite, Schist, Blue Stone (Diorite) | Beaujolais Villages & 10 Crus |
Geological Foundations
The professional standing of Beaujolais was fundamentally elevated by a watershed soil study conducted between 2009 and 2018. Through 15,000 surveys and pits dug every 12 hectares, researchers identified over 300 unique soil types, leading to the region’s status as a UNESCO Global Geopark. A critical differentiator for Beaujolais is the “Ice Age Factor”: while glaciers scraped away ancient topsoil in much of Northern Europe, but stopped just kilometres short of Beaujolais. This preserved a 500-million-year-old foundation that defines the following eras:
- 500 Million Years Ago: Formation of the bedrock, primarily Gneiss and Schist.
- 400 Million Years Ago: Intense volcanic activity while submerged, creating Blue Stone (Diorite).
- 300 Million Years Ago: The upheaval of the Granite Massif Central.
- The Jurassic Era: Marine deposits forming the Limestone (Golden Stones / Pierres Dorées) of the south.
For the viticulturist, the contrast between Granite and Blue Stone is essential. Granite erodes into free-draining sand, producing delicate, red-fruited, and floral wines while Blue Stone erodes into fine clay-like particles that retain water and nutrients, resulting in “solar” resilience and wines with darker fruit, spice, and structural power. These soils provide the essential bedrock for navigating a changing climate.
Climate, the “Solar” Vintage Shift, and Environmental Initiatives
Iain noted that Beaujolais sits at a climatic crossroads, primarily continental but moderated by oceanic and Mediterranean influences. Climate change has shifted the region toward “solar” vintages (notably 2022 and 2023), characterized by high luminosity and heat. In this new reality, Gamay has emerged as a resilient hero. Unlike Pinot Noir, which often struggles to maintain balance in extreme heat, Gamay retains its signature acidity and freshness even at 14% ABV. Despite the recurring threats of frost and hail, these solar conditions are producing wines of unprecedented concentration. Amidst this technical evolution, the culture of “Beaujonomie”, the philosophy of sharing, accessibility, and the joy of the table, remains the region’s human heartbeat.
As early as 1989, some winegrowers, together, studied their vines to determine the most sustainable way to protect them, respecting environmental, economic and social aspects, while preserving natural resources. This included maintaining or reintroducing biodiversity in the vineyards, limiting inputs to preserve soil life and water quality, and restoring the natural landscape. Many of the wineries are now certified in some way, such as Agriculture Biologique, Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE), demeter (biodynamics), and more.
Vinification: Carbonic, Semi-Carbonic, and Burgundian Methods
The strategic choice of vinification defines whether a wine is “Expressive” (fruit-driven) or “Exceptional” (structured for age) according to Iain. The methods:
- Full Carbonic Maceration: An anaerobic process in a sealed tank filled with CO2. It relies on an internal enzymatic reaction within the whole berry, producing soft, low-tannin wines with vibrant aromatics.
- Semi-Carbonic Maceration: The regional standard. Whole clusters are placed in a tank; the weight of the fruit crushes the bottom layer, starting a yeast fermentation. This naturally produces the CO2 required for the top grapes to undergo carbonic maceration.
- Burgundian Method: Traditional fermentation involving de-stemming and crushing, often with longer maceration (3–4 weeks) to extract the tannins and structure required for long-term cellaring.
It is vital to debunk the “banana and bubblegum” clichés surrounding Beaujolais wines. These aromas and flavours were never a natural by-product of the region; they were the result of industrial shortcuts, specifically from using Yeast 71B (an industrial tool used for speed rather than quality) and thermovinification. These techniques are largely absent in high-quality modern production.
Flight Review: Eight Expressions of Diversity
We had eight wines to try during this seminar taking us through most of the Crus of Beaujolais. This flight illustrates the spectrum of Beaujolais wines starting in the south and moving northward, with description by Iain followed by my wine tasting notes:
- Maison Albert Bichot “Parcellaire,” Beaujolais Villages 2023: Reflecting the investment of Côte d’Or producers, this wine uses the Burgundian method. Fermentation is strictly kept below 25°C to preserve the delicate primary fruit of this high-elevation site.
– This wine has a medium garnet colour. Light tart red fruit nose, plus a touch of candied cherries and oak. Dry, lean, medium body with crunch red berry flavours. Medium-plus acidity and light tannins. - Michel Guignier, Saint-Amour 2020: A practitioner of “natural” viticulture using horse-farming. Guignier uses a basket press and is fastidious about achieving a clean must, resulting in a layered, organic expression aged on the lees.
– A medium garnet colour with some bricking. A light red cherry nose plus touches of leather and savoury notes. Dry, light body with a smooth but lean mouthfeel. Light intensity red fruit and tart red cherry flavours. Higher acidity and light tannins. Medium-plus length with a tart finish. - Domaine du Vieux Bourg, “Au Bois Retour,” Chénas 2022: Coming from the smallest Cru, this wine showcases the granite-driven purity and “juiciness” of the 2022 solar vintage.
– This is the smallest of all the cru in Beaujolais and one of my favourite wines from this seminar. This wine has medium-minus intensity clear garnet colour in the glass. Dry, medium-plus body with a round, silky smooth mouthfeel. Floral (violets), red cherries and some candied cherries plus a touch of savoury herbs on the palate. Medium acidity and light tannins. Medium-plus length with a touch of oak on the finish. - Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent 2022: A benchmark for the “Exceptional” category. Long maceration (3 – 4 weeks) creates a wine that begins to “Pinoter”, developing the structural elegance and aromatic profile of fine Pinot Noir.
– Medium-plus intensity, dull garnet colour. Medium-minus intensity aromas of flint and deep red fruits. Dry, medium-plus body, with a round, thicker mouthfeel. Medium acidity and light tannins. Red cherries on the palate followed by tart red fruit and some oak. Lightly drying tannins and some puckering on the finish. – - Château de La Chaize, Fleurie 2023, Château Bellevue Les Charmes, Morgon 2019, and Domaine Baron de l’Écluse, Les Garances, Côte de Brouilly 2022 winesChâteau de La Chaize, Fleurie 2023: From the region’s largest estate, this wine captures the “stony” minerality of granite, using concrete aging to protect its floral aromatics.
– A medium-minus intensity garnet colour. Light candied red cherries on the nose. Dry, medium body with a super smooth mouthfeel. Medium-plus acidity and lighter tannins. Tart red fruits, cranberries?, dill?, and some minerality. A puckering finish. - Château Bellevue Les Charmes, Morgon 2019: An exploration of the verb “Morgana” – the specific aging process where Morgon evolves from primary fruit into savoury, earthy, and spicy depth. Morgon is the second largest cru.
– This wine has a medium-minus intensity brickish-garnet colour. Light aromas of old oak, aged cherries and other savoury notes. Dry, medium body with a smooth, soft mouthfeel. Dill, aged red cherries and some nutmeg flavour toward the finish. Medium-plus acidity and light tannins. - Domaine Baron de l’Écluse, “Les Garances,” Côte de Brouilly 2022: Sourced from 90-year-old vines on volcanic Blue Stone. At 14% ABV, this “solar” wine resembles the Northern Rhône (Syrah) with its dark fruit, pepper, and spice more than it does Pinot Noir.
– This wine has a deep garnet colour. Deep, rich ripe black fruit and sweet spices plus a touch of oak on the nose. Dry, medium-plus body with a soft, smooth, thicker mouthfeel. Deep black and red fruit flavours, along with touches of sweet spices and a mix of tart and candied cherries. Medium tannins get firmer on the finish. Tart finish. - Maison Piron, Beaujolais Blanc 2023: Our only white wine from Beaujolais. Sourced from the limestone border of the Mâconnais, this Chardonnay offers a “White Burgundy” profile at incredible value, highlighting the region’s versatility beyond Gamay.
– A medium intensity, bright lemon colour. Soft aromas of lemon and lemon meringue pie on the nose. Dry, medium-plus body with a round, thicker mouthfeel. Medium-plus acidity. Citrus and crisp apple flavours. Medium length. –
To Conclude
Beaujolais currently offers a compelling value proposition in the fine wine market. While it once commanded prices on par with the legendary estates of the Côte d’Or, it now provides professionals and general wine lovers with access to world-class terroir wines at a fraction of the cost.
MyWinePal
Facebook: @karl.kliparchuk
Instagram: @mywinepal
Linkedin: karl-kliparchuk-mywinepal
Twitter: @mywinepal
Committed to Biodynamics
Friday, April 28, 5:15-6:45 p.m.
Recap by Christine Campbell, FWS, Girls Go Grape
Principal: Gérard Bertrand, Owner
Moderator: Anthony Gismondi
A grounded, human approach to biodynamics rooted in soil health, intuition, and the power of wine to connect
There’s a tendency to view biodynamics as abstract, even mystical—something sitting just outside the boundaries of serious wine conversation. But during the Vancouver International Wine Festivals’ ‘Committed to Biodynamics’ seminar, Gérard Bertrand reframed it with clarity and conviction: not as ideology, but as responsibility.
Moderated by Anthony Gismondi, the seminar grounded Bertrand’s work in both philosophy and practice. Based in Languedoc-Roussillon—where his home and vineyards are located—he has long championed the region’s place alongside France’s most respected appellations. Bertrand’s commitment to biodynamics began in 2002 with the conversion of Domaine de Cigalus, and today his estates are Demeter International certified, reflecting a rigorous and holistic approach to farming.
In a world where wine now competes with everything from craft cocktails to shifting generational tastes, the message was clear: wine must fight for relevance, not through trend, but through meaning. “Wine is a unique beverage,” he noted. It creates connections. It builds bridges. When you share a bottle, you share an experience—something increasingly rare in a fragmented world.
For Bertrand, biodynamics is the path forward—but only if it’s understood properly. Strip away the clichés, and what remains is rigorous, demanding farming. “You need to put life into the soil, not take it away.” In biodynamic vineyards, he explained, there can be up to 47,000 living organisms in a single gram of soil. It’s this vitality—this living ecosystem—that translates into wines of greater energy, balance, and complexity.
Yes, there are lunar and astral calendars, and preparations that echo homeopathy, but Bertrand framed these not as dogma, rather as part of a larger discipline rooted in observation and intuition. “You need to understand the land before you can create great wine.” Terroir, he emphasized, is the only constant. Everything else is human interpretation.
And interpretation, in his world, is both science and art.
At higher elevations in Limoux, between 250 and 500 metres, wines like Domaine de L’Aigle Chardonnay 2023 show the freshness and precision that come from this approach. But Bertrand’s creative energy arguably shines brightest in blending—a process he described with near obsession. Eight sessions, four hours each, to arrive at a final cuvée. Precision, patience, and imagination all working in tandem.
Cigalus Rouge 2022, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, Caladoc, and Carignan, hit all the right notes. Aged in 225 litre new French oak barrels for 12 months, the result is a delicious, concentrated blend – where Bertrand shines.
That same philosophy carries into newer expressions, like Villa Soleilla 2022—an orange wine crafted from Roussanne, Vermentino, and Viognier. Textural, layered, and designed for the table, it speaks to what Bertrand calls a “new way of drinking wine”—one that embraces versatility and curiosity without losing its roots.
There’s also a human element that runs through everything he does. With over 150 people working across his vineyards, monthly education sessions ensure that biodynamics is not just practised, but understood. As Gismondi aptly put it, it can feel like missionary work—communicating not just a farming method, but a philosophy of care.
In the end, Bertrand’s message lands simply: leave the land better than you found it. Make wines that bring people together. And in a world that often feels fractured, lean into wine’s quiet power to create shared moments of joy.
Because, at its best, wine is not just something we drink—it’s something we experience together.
Girls Go Grape
Facebook: @girlsgogrape
Instagram: @girlsgograpedotcom
Twitter: @girlsgogrape
Classic & Contemporary Australia
Friday, March 13, 9:30-11:15 a.m.
Vancouver Convention Centre East
Recap by Sid Cross
Moderator: Mark Davidson
The 47th Annual #VIWF was full of remarkable wine educational events. Among the best highlights was an outstanding trade seminar, “Classic and Contemporary Australia,” delivered on March 13, 2026 by the insightful Mark Davidson. This was truly #AussieWineDiscovered, featuring a detailed look at the history, diversity, and top quality wines being produced there. Mark is an experienced local treasure who now does a terrific job as Head of Education Development – Americas for Wine Australia. Last month, he was also in Vancouver presenting a most informative update on wines from the specific Victoria region in Australia with my detailed article linked here. This time Mark spoke about nine excellent representative wines from different regions of Australia, showcasing their amazing versatility in style with four whites and five reds using brilliantly conceived slides, as noted at the end of this report. He started with the history from the Pioneer Era (late 1700s–1800s), the Fortified Era (1900-1940s), the continuing Vineyard Changes made on Ancient Soils (including Bush Vines), and the new style Current Era with an “Accent on Freshness.”
Here is an overview of the nine top-quality #AussieWine tasted:
2017 SEMILLON VAT 1, TYRRELL’S VINEYARDS HUNTER VALLEY: Fantastic start with one of the world’s best aging dry whites and a cellar favourite of your scribe. Grapes are always picked at lower Brix to capture higher acidity. They are fermented in stainless steel without malolactic conversion or oak, then bottled early at just over 11% ABV. The magic with aging in the bottle is fantastic! An informative slide below states that the “toasty” character of aged Semillon is due to three compounds: Wine lactone (increased coconut & lime concentration). Phenylacetaldehyde (honey-like aroma) and TPB in combination. 2017 is 9 years old but seems still very young without yet enough complex tertiary development. Tyrrell’s has been using screw caps since 2004 so I asked Mark how the older vintages are progressing. He reported that they “are aging very well indeed under screwcap.” Find this treasure in any vintage and keep it a while for a future important celebration. Wonderful experience.
2017 RIESLING THE CONTOURS, PEWSEY VALE EDEN VALLEY: Pewsey Vale makes a dependable good value Riesling; young vintages like 2024 show fresh citrus vibrancy. This wine, from The Contours block on the coolest higher-altitude slopes (1500 metres) using older (planted 1961) biodynamically farmed vines, shows distinctive Eden Valley terroir, with 2017 bottle age, textbook varietal petrol notes, and hints of lemongrass, cloves, fennel and honey-toast. Well done.
2025 FIANO LOOSE CANNON, HUGH HAMILTON BAROSSA VALLEY: It’s great to see this new contemporary success of this Italian white variety from 2 vineyards fermented in stainless steel at 12.8% ABV, by Hugh Hamilton, who claims to be “Australia’s oldest surviving wine family” with a “Black Sheep spirit.” Different from the aromatic fruits of Fiano di Avellino DOCG, this wine is delightful in its own right served chilled with superb freshness and clean floral herbal perfumes. Enjoy how delicious it is already.
2024 CHARDONNAY CIRCLE OF FIFTHS, GIANT STEPS YARRA VALLEY: As noted several times previously on this blog, Australian Chardonnay has evolved significantly, offering outstanding quality from so many diverse climatic regions including Adelaide Hills, Margaret River, Tasmania and this Yarra Valley. Giant Steps is another fine example, featuring the musical Circle of Fifths Chardonnay. It uses fruit from five hand-picked vineyard sites, undergoes whole-bunch pressing with wild yeast fermentation (no malolactic conversion) in 15% new French oak , and ages for 9 months on the lees without stirring. Classy, refined and lovely, it will gain further complexity over time.
2023 PINOT NOIR DIXON, BINDI MACEDON RANGES: Similar to Australian Chardonnay, new regions are increasingly shining, including Adelaide Hills, Geelong, Gippsland, Mornington Peninsula, Tasmania (Tamar Valley & Sparkling in Pipers River), and Yarra Valley – plus others emerging. This cooler region, the Macedon Ranges (northwest of Melbourne), sits at higher altitudes, offering a more elegant style – a region to watch in a warming world. This Dixon selection of vines planted in 1988 & 2001 from Bindi, offers fragrant, bright Pinot Noir perfumes showing fresh earthy cherries on the palate at 14% ABV. Encouraging region to monitor.
2024 GRENACHE SAND ROAD, HITHER & YON MCLAREN VALE: How this classic grape variety has evolved worldwide more positively over the past decades – including in Australian wine regions. Mark says, “Picking times have changed but not too early” is required. This mostly whole berry ferment in stainless steel with 10% whole bunch spends 14 months in larger 500-litre older wood. We both felt it was attractively refreshing and juicier, tasting more delicious than Grenache in earlier years. On the right track with this one at 14% ABV.
2022 SHIRAZ VIOGNIER, CLONAKILLA CANBERRA DISTRICT: Co-fermented 94% Shiraz with about 6% Viognier on the skins for three weeks, followed by 12 months in French barriques and puncheons. Admire the lovely elegant aromatic aromas, along with the pure subtle harmonious balance, in this cooler vintage called “luminous” at only 13% ABV. An increasingly popular style.
2021 KEYNETON EUPHONIUM, HENSCHKE BAROSSA VALLEY: A full-bodied blend at 14.5% ABV, consisting of 67% Shiraz, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Merlot from top producer Henschke at a more reasonable price. It includes some 100-year-old vines fermented in open top concrete, then aged 18-20 months in French & American oak (20% new). Big, bold, and peppery, this needs more bottle time; it has intense fruit and many tannins. It’s a screw cap but still a powerful one for the cellar. We asked what “old vines” really means and the slide below provided the information: Old vines are 35+ years, Survivor vines are 70+, Centenarian vines are 100+, and Ancestor vines are 125+.
2021 CABERNET SAUVIGNON TRUEMAN, HICKINBOTHAM MCLAREN VALE: This 100% Cab Sauv from the Clarendon Vineyard was basket-pressed into 60% new and used French oak barriques. It was then blended into four-year-old 4.8 KL foudres for 4 months before bottling in December 2022 at 14% ABV. This dense Cabernet Sauvignon has impressively concentrated boysenberry & plummy fruit with mocha and chocolate overtones. It will develop, soften, and round out with bottle age. There’s a lot to like in that unique terroir styling of McLaren Vale.
Friday, March 13, 5:15-6:45 p.m.
Vancouver Convention Centre East
Recap by Karl Kliparchuk, WSET
The 47th Vancouver International Wine Festival seminar, Passport to Global Wines, was a strategic exploration of the global viticultural map through the lens of cultural identity. Moderators Christine Campbell, Lisa Giovanella, and James Nevison established a “Passport” metaphor as a vehicle to navigate international “ports of entry,” moving beyond the standard technical data about how a wine is made and instead concentrated on three topics: the specific vision of the winery principal, the influence of local culture, and the sense of place dictated by unique geography. The seminar concentrated toward storytelling and cultural heritage, rather than talking about the vinification methods.
Following are the ten wines with discussions by their winery principals from around the world. Embedded will be my wine tasting notes for each wine.
Gualtiero Cenere, Villa Sandi
Villa Sandi Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Di Cartizze DOCG La Rivetta 2024
Gualtiero Cenere from Villa Sandi, brought our attention to the micro-region of Cartizze within the broader Prosecco DOCG appellation. This tiny region spans just 106 hectares within a much larger 37,000-hectare Prosecco landscape and forms part of the Prosecco Hills of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Here, viticulture is often described as “heroic,” with vineyards planted on dramatically steep slopes where mechanization is impossible. Harvesting is entirely manual, with workers sometimes needing to cling to the vines as they pick the fruit. Despite the physical demands required to produce these wines, the philosophy in the Veneto remains simple. Prosecco is considered an everyday wine, crafted for sharing and enjoyment, reflecting a regional spirit that celebrates accessibility and a joy for life.
Villa Sandi’s “La Rivetta” single vineyard serves as a primary case study for heroic viticulture. Their vineyards are situated on slopes so precipitous that mechanization is physically impossible; every intervention, from pruning to the harvest, requires manual labour and significant physical risk. This manual craftsmanship in extreme topography is the primary driver of the wine’s premium status.
Villa Sandi Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Di Cartizze DOCG La Rivetta 2024, Veneto, Italy – a pale lemon colour with tiny bubbles showing in the glass. Nice, light citrus, orange, stone fruits, and white flowers aromas. Light body with a mix of creamy and biting bubbles. High acidity. Tropical fruits, plus oranges, and some bitterness on the palate.
Jean-Luc Fourrey, Chablis
Domaine Fourrey Côte de Lechet 1er Cru Heritage l’Ancestrale 2023
Jean-Luc Fourrey presented his “l’Ancestrale,” a wine tied to the Kimmeridgian limestone soils of the Côte de Léchet in Chablis. This geological origin imparts the signature “straight and mineral” character synonymous with premium Chablis. This wine pays tribute to family heritage, honouring his grandparents and drawing fruit from vines planted in his birth year, 1969. Jean-Luc is the fourth generation running the winery.
While rooted in tradition, the winery is also adapting to modern challenges. To preserve freshness and the hallmark minerality of Chablis in a warming climate, the wine is fermented in amphorae and stone vessels rather than the more typical wood or stainless steel. But, cultural traditions remain equally important in the region, including the annual celebration of Saint Vincent around January 22nd, when growers and communities gather to pray for a successful harvest while celebrating the enduring culture of Burgundy wine.
Domaine Fourrey Côte de Lechet 1er Cru Heritage “l’Ancestrale” 2023, Bourgogne, France – medium lemon colour. Light stone fruit and mineral aromas. Medium body with a soft, smooth mouthfeel and a buttery texture. Citrus, mineral, and a touch of toast on the palate. Medium-plus length finishing with buttered toast, stoniness and citrus flavours. A textured wine.
Kailee Frasch, Quails’ Gate Winery
Quails’ Gate Winery Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2023
The Okanagan Valley was represented through two perspectives from Quails’ Gate Winery in West Kelowna and Burrowing Owl Estate Winery in Oliver. The modern wine industry took shape in the late 1980s with a major vineyard transition that saw hybrid grapes removed and replaced with European Vitis vinifera. Kailee highlighted the moderating influence of Okanagan Lake that cools the vineyards during the intense summer heat and offers critical protection against winter kill, resulting in a balance of rich ripeness and vibrant acidity in their Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay.
While Chablis is defined by centuries of expectation, Quails’ Gate Winery represents the spirit of youth and adaptability. Celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay, Kailee outlined how a lack of centuries-old restrictions allows for a culture of constant innovation.
Quails’ Gate Winery Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2023, Okanagan Valley, BC – a deeper, bright lemon colour. Deep aromas of tropical fruit, toast, and butterscotch. This wine is dry with a smooth, soft mouthfeel. Lower acidity. Deep flavours of tropical fruit and butterscotch.
Takenari Yamamori, Dassai Saké Brewery
Dassai Saké Brewery Dassai 39 NV
Takenari Yamamori of Dassai offered a fascinating perspective on saké, suggesting that its character is shaped less by terroir and more by the intellect and technical skill of the brewers themselves. The brewery is renowned for its meticulous approach to rice polishing, often reducing the grain to 39 percent or less of its original size to craft premium Junmai Daiginjo. This intense polishing removes outer layers of the rice, helping produce a sake known for precision, purity, and elegance. Dassai has also pushed innovation well beyond the brewery walls. In an ambitious experiment, the company sent yeast and rice to the International Space Station to explore how fermentation behaves in zero gravity, imagining a future where sake might one day provide a touch of enjoyment and cultural connection for human settlements on the moon.
The inclusion of sake in a wine seminar signals a global shift toward recognizing its sophistication. Takenari Yamamori of Dassai, located in the Yamaguchi Prefecture, detailed the historical decline of “cheap and strong” bulk production in favour of the premium “Junmai Daiginjo” category.
(Karl: Junmai Daiginjo is a premium sake category made with rice polished to 50% or less of its original size, with no added brewer’s alcohol. It is characterized by high, fruity/floral aromas, a delicate, refined flavour profile, and a clean finish.)
Dassai Saké Brewery Dassai 39 NV, Yamaguchi, Japan – I was amazed at how perfectly clear and bright this saké was in the glass, as it stood out from the lemon and garnet coloured glasses of wines that surrounded it. It had a light floral nose with more floral on the palate. Dry with a soft mouthfeel. Very delicate flavours of floral along with pears.
Rod Hallam, Villa Maria
Villa Maria Taylor’s Pass Pinot Noir 2018
Rod Hallam from Villa Maria spoke about the Taylor’s Pass Vineyard in Marlborough, highlighting how New Zealand stands as the youngest wine region represented on the panel <Karl: BC’s modern winemaking started in the late 1980’s> . Modern winemaking in New Zealand only truly began in the 1970s, with growers embracing a practical “give it a crack” mindset that encouraged experimentation rather than strict adherence to Old World traditions.
The geology of the region plays a role in shaping the wines, with soils containing a gray-blue mudstone, along with graywacke stones carried down from riverbeds that help contribute to the purity and aromatic lift found in Pinot Noir. Despite Marlborough’s global reputation, total plantings of Pinot Noir across New Zealand remains relatively small, covering an area roughly thirteen times the size of Stanley Park. That modest scale has fostered a strong culture of sustainability, with producers focused on keeping the land pristine for future generations.
Villa Maria’s Taylor’s Pass Vineyard in Marlborough, is a site defined by the cool breezes of the Mt. Tapuaenuku peaks. These alpine influences regulate temperatures, ensuring the high-acid profile necessary for premium Pinot Noir.
Villa Maria Taylor’s Pass Pinot Noir 2018, Marlborough, New Zealand – A medium intensity, translucent garnet colour. Medium intensity aromas of toast, red fruits and strawberries. Dry, medium body with a lean mouthfeel. Red fruit flavours along with touches of pepperiness, dill and some bitterness. Medium length with red cherry flavours toward the finish.
Claudia Varas Rubio, Famille J.M. Cazes (Famille Gassier)
Famille JM Cazes Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC Rouge 2021
Claudia Varas Rubio of Famille J.M. Cazes shared the rich historical backdrop of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, whose name translates to the “New Castle of the Popes.” During the era when the papacy resided in nearby Avignon, the region became closely tied to the Church, and the Popes’ fondness for its wines helped establish the area’s lasting prestige.
The vineyards themselves are equally distinctive, covered with large rounded river stones, deposited by ancient glacial movements, known locally as galets roulés, often described as “pudding stones,” which absorb warmth during the day and slowly release heat at night, helping grapes ripen despite the cooling influence of the powerful Mistral wind.
Claudia noted that the environment is tough, characterized by the piercing, dry Mistral wind and extreme temperature fluctuations. But, this toughness is transformed into the generosity of the Grenache-based blend as the ruggedness forces the vines to struggle, concentrating the fruit and resulting in a powerful wine.
Famille JM Cazes Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC Rouge 2021, Rhône, France – this wine is primarily a Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre blend. It has a deep garnet colour and shows teardrops on the sides of the glass with swirling. It has a light intensity, but deep aromas of raspberries and cherries. Dry, medium-plus body with a smooth mouthfeel. Ripe, juicy red fruits and raspberries, plus pepperiness on the palate. Higher acidity and medium tannins. A long lingering finish.
Leandro Rigo, UKO Wines
UKO Wines Old Vines Malbec 2021
Leandro Rigo, owner of UKO Wines, spoke about the deep connection between winemaking and the dramatic landscape of the Uco Valley, where vineyards sit in the shadow of the Andes Mountains. In this semi-arid environment, viticulture depends entirely on snowmelt flowing down from the Andes; water that Leandro described as quite literally giving life to the desert. With many vineyards planted above 1,000 metres in elevation, the region benefits from sunny days and sharply cooler nights, a combination that helps shape expressive Argentinean Malbec with both power and freshness.
UKO Wines Old Vines Malbec 2021, Mendoza, Argentina – this wine, made with 50 year old vines, is opaque garnet-black in the glass. Medium intensity, deep aromas of black fruits and oak. Dry, medium-plus body with a smooth mouthfeel. Deep, ripe black fruit flavours, plus light pepperiness and a touch of dill. Medium acidity and tannins with the tannins firming up on the finish.
Stephen Neumann, Burrowing Owl Estate Winery
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Meritage 2021
Stephen Neumann from Burrowing Owl Estate Winery reflected on the remarkable transformation of Oliver in the Okanagan Valley, once known in the 1920s as the “Cantaloupe Capital of Canada.” The turning point came in 1988 with a government-supported vineyard renewal program that removed hybrid grapes and replaced them with European Vitis vinifera, setting the stage for the modern Canadian wine industry.
The winery’s Meritage, (a North American trademarked combination of Merit and Heritage), a Bordeaux-inspired blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc, is a result of the vineyard renewal program. The 2021 vintage shows how well the South Okanagan can ripen these classic varieties, delivering savoury pyrazine notes alongside layered fruit and structure, and illustrating how the region has evolved from simple fruit-driven wines to bottles with greater depth getting international recognition.
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Meritage 2021, Okanagan Valley, BC – a deep garnet colour. Medium intensity, deep aromas of black fruit and leather. Dry, fuller body with a smooth, lean mouthfeel. Black fruit flavours along with leather, a touch of dill, and light pepperiness. Medium acidity and drying tannins. A touch of butteriness toward the finish.
Fiorenzo Rista, Ville Metamorfosis
Fiorenzo Rista of Ville Metamorfosis, from Romania, an Italian winemaker, presented a wine from the Dealu Mare region made with the hybrid grape Negru De Dragasani, a modern cross developed in 1993. The philosophy behind the project is rooted in authenticity, with a focus on allowing Romanian soils and vineyards to speak for themselves rather than imitating the well-known styles of France or Italy. Wine culture in Romania remains deeply tied to everyday life, where a bottle on the table is seen as something meant to be shared, reflecting a tradition of generosity, hospitality, and community around food and family.
Viile Metamorfosis Via Marchizului Negru De Dragasani 2021, Dealu Mare, Romania – opaque garnet-black in the glass. Light intensity, black fruit nose. Dry, medium body with a soft, smooth mouthfeel. Sweet black fruit flavours. Lower acidity and fine grained tannins that get firmer and drying on the finish.
Kelly Ladbrook, Barossa Valley Estate
Barossa Valley Estate E&E Black Pepper Shiraz 2021
Kelly Ladbrook from Barossa Valley Estate offered a perspective that challenges the long-standing stereotype of bold Australian wines by presenting their icon E&E Black Pepper Shiraz from the Barossa Valley. The “E&E” name traces back to a group of growers who once marked their best barrels with their initials, and in one memorable vintage the top fruit happened to come from two growers whose surnames both began with the letter E, giving rise to the collaborative label.
The region carries a deep sense of community history, symbolized by the famous Seppeltsfield Road, often called the Avenue of Hopes and Dreams, where rows of palms were planted during the Great Depression and wartime years to provide employment for local residents. Today, many producers in the Barossa embrace a more refined philosophy in the cellar, aiming for wines that emphasize definition, structure, and complexity rather than sheer power, reflecting a broader regional shift toward substance over show.
Barossa Valley Estate E&E Black Pepper Shiraz 2021, Barossa Valley, Australia – Kelly noted that this wine is not produced each year, only the best parcels are selected for this wine, and that this wine will age ten or more years. It has an opaque garnet-black colour. Light aromas of overall black fruits, plus sweet black fruits and some oak. The wine is dry, medium-plus body with a soft mouthfeel. Black fruit flavours plus pepperiness on the palate. Medium acidity and soft tannins.
To Conclude
The seminar concluded by synthesizing the overarching lessons of this global tour. The “Passport” journey demonstrated that while geography provides the foundation, it is the culture and human hands in the vineyard and winery that provides the soul.
Thank you to the Vancouver International Wine Festival for providing me with a media seat to attend this seminar.
MyWinePal
Facebook: @karl.kliparchuk
Instagram: @mywinepal
Linkedin: karl-kliparchuk-mywinepal
Twitter: @mywinepal
